Brooding Skye

The Isle of Skye is the largest of the Inner Hebrides and situated just off Scotland's north west coastline. The landscape and quality of light on the island is truly unique - it is one of my favourite places to photograph in the UK. I have been fortunate enough to visit Skye for the last three years. The reason for my latest sojourn was to tweak the structure of my five day photography workshop which is scheduled to run in Spring 2013. I wanted to re-visit some favourite locations such as the Trotternish Peninsula, Neist Point and the Cuillins. I was also looking forward to visiting Dunvegan Castle to see if it was worth adding to the 2013 timetable.

Ferry from Mallaig to Skye. iPhone 4

The journey from the Peak District up to Skye, in the car, is a long old trek (nine and a half hours) but well worth the effort when you finally arrive. I slightly reduced my SatNav arrival time by driving to the small fishing port of Mallaig and catching a ferry across to the island. I prefer this route as it is shorter and also gives you the chance for a proper leg stretch, whilst taking in the scenery. Accessing Skye via the bridge at Kyle of Lockalsh doesn't really give you that feeling of having arrived on an island, plus it takes a lot longer.

The boat crossing was a real treat. The ocean was calm and the weather conditions ideal for photography. I took the opportunity to document this short trip with the iPhone and was (as always) pleased with the results it produced.

Home from home. Glenbrittle campsite. iPhone 4

For the duration of my stay, on the island, I chose the campsite at Glen Brittle (a large glen in the south of the island) which has great views of the sea loch (Loch Brittle) in one direction and the Cuillin Hills in the other. After paying for my pitch, I very quickly threw the tent up and set out to explore the terrain leading up to Sgurr Dearg, one of the Cuillins menacing peaks. Dearg's highest point is the, aptly named, Inaccessible Pinnacle (In Pinn) which I have never conquered - you need tons of climbing gear for this and probably an experienced guide. On this occasion I was more than happy to photograph the mountains from lower down. My intention was to include some interesting foreground subject matter and have the foreboding hills in the background. I think I achieved this with the image below. All the scene lacks is a couple of hobbits running across the landscape.

Mountain stream and the Cuillins. Canon EOS 1D Mark III

Landscape photography has many potential pitfalls, adverse weather conditions topping the list. What I hadn't anticipated on this latest trip was the dreaded Scottish midge. I normally visit Skye in early spring before they've emerged. Whilst making the above exposure my face, hands and legs were literally covered by hundreds of the flying insects. Apparently it's the female of the species that is more deadly than the male - they gather in clouds and bite anything that is in close proximity to their breeding site. I survived the encounter with the help of Avon's skin so soft spray - THE best repellant against the midge.

Fishing trawler on the Sound of Raasay. Canon EOS 1D Mark III

Another location I was looking forward to photographing again was the Trotternish Peninsula. The area contains some remarkable rock formations and exceptional views of the Sound of Raasay and Loch Leathan. The following day I got up pretty early and drove north through Portree and then north east along the A855, finally reaching the car park opposite Loch Leathan just after sunrise. To get to the Storr you have to pass through a woodland that surrounds the car park. A woodland trail snakes in a westerly direction through the trees until it finally ends and you reach grassy upland. At this point you would normally be greeted with astonishing views of The Old Man but on this particular morning it was pretty foggy so I had to climb a bit higher to get a decent view. Eventually the rocky outcrop emerged, shrouded in mist, and I made some exposures using the iPhone and also the DSLR (tank mark III). Of all the shots I took the most atmospheric was the one below which I got with the smart phone.

The Old Man of Storr. iPhone 4

As the morning progressed the mist cleared and some sporadic sunlight shone through. I made my way right up to the Old Man of Storr and directly opposite was another rock formation that intrigued me, so I composed a shot that I thought had promise. After adding filters to the filter holder, recomposing and metering, the light changed and the scene lost its energy. An hour later, I was rooted to the same spot, soaked to the skin and still waiting! If you give up and move on the light will eventually hit the right mark and you'll have missed your shot. That's the thought that usually keeps me in situ. It's a constant struggle. I remained and eventually the sunlight rolled across the landscape until it finally illuminated the craggy rock face.

Rocky Outcrop, Trotternish Peninsula. Canon EOS 1D Mark III

The light moved across the scene pretty quickly and I only made the one exposure, so I was pleased that I managed to get the shot I wanted. With the shot bagged I moved east from the Old Man and climbed a ridge that gave some fantastic views of Loch Leathan and the wooded valley below. Again, the waiting game. I don't actually mind the waiting, if you're going to wait for something then this is the place to do it - it's not like waiting for an inner city bus. I didn't have too long to wait before everything fell into place and reminded me of why I love landscape photography so much. The low cloud was now beginning to break up, as it did so the sunlight illuminated the countryside below.

Loch Leathan. Canon EOS 1D Mark III

I made numerous shots of Loch Leathan and the surrounding landscape. After checking the image histogram data on the back of the cameras LCD screen, I was fairly confident that my exposures were accurate. Content, I began my descent in search of food and warmth.

Back in the car, I headed south down the A855 to Portree for a brief lunch before heading north west to Dunvegan castle. I had never visited the castle before and wanted to find out if it had enough subject matter to warrant inclusion on my Isle of Skye photography workshop. The weather had now cleared and by the time I arrived at Dunvegan the conditions were excellent. 

Woodland Garden, Dunvegan Castle. iPhone 4

The castle is well worth a visit. It is built on a rocky outcrop and was once entirely surrounded by the sea. Today it is only part encircled by the ocean, the rest of the grounds now contain five acres of formal gardens. The gardens are incredible. They include a woodland walk, a water garden, a walled garden, a woodland garden and a garden museum. All of the sections blew me away but it was the walled garden that really caught my eye. The volume of species coupled with the expert planting scheme made for a visual feast.

Walled Garden, Dunvegan Castle. Canon EOS 1D Mark III

Photography is not permitted within the castle's interior, which isn't really a problem for photographers as the view of the exterior is much more interesting. Near perfect conditions made for some decent images. Plenty of sunshine, blue sky and moving white cloud combined to help me out when photographing the castle. 

Dunvegan Castle. Canon EOS 1D Mark III

Visiting Dunvegan was definitely worth the effort and I have now added it as a location on my Skye photography workshop. With the research completed and plenty of daylight left I decided to make my way across to Neist Point to photograph it's impressive lighthouse.

Lighthouse at Neist Point. Canon EOS 1D Mark III 

Neist Point is situated on the north west of the island, in fact, it is the most westerly point on Skye. I know I keep harping on about the stunning views but this location is truly outstanding. The sea cliffs are unusually huge and have to be seen to be believed.
The quality of light at Neist Point on this occasion was fantastic, very similar to my visit in 2011, the only difference being that on this particular day there was hardly any wind. Last year the wind was so ferocious I had to fight to keep the tripod and camera vertical (and my gear's got some weight to it). Not so on this occasion, there was only a slight breeze. I made hundreds of exposures and felt completely and utterly in the zone. Days like this are to be cherished and if you're a photographer, recorded. I shot my last images as the sun set slowly in the distance over the Outer Hebrides. Joy.

The Outer Hebrides. Canon EOS 1D Mark III

For anyone interested in my Skye landscape photography workshop, it runs from April 28th - May 2nd 2013. Places are limited to five people. More details can be found by visiting my sister site: www.f22workshop.com

* All iPhone images were shot using the Hipstamatic camera application. Lens: Loftus, Film: DC.

Uninhabited places

Had a fairly hectic August and what promises to be an equally busy September so just going to sneak this blog entry in whilst I've got a spare half hour.

I spent a fair proportion of last month running photography workshops as well as preparing for future courses which will take place next year. Having relocated to the edge of the Peak District a few months ago I am still getting used to the area. As already mentioned in the previous blog post Rockit my favourite area so far is the walk up to Kinder plateau. The route I take up to the tops is via the small village of Hayfield and provides a great deal of subject matter, so ideal for running photography workshop. I have now used this route several times whilst out on workshops and also when shooting my own personal work.

Quiet evening walks in such designated areas of outstanding natural beauty are something that I try to do as often as possible. The solitude found in such locations allows me to both relax and also contemplate future photographic projects. On one of these recent excursions I found myself asking more and more questions about what I was photographing and why? Most of the time I am trying to escape the influence of mankind and enjoy the unspoilt natural landscape. This is actually quite difficult to do as our imprint on the landscape is evident everywhere you look. Even in the aesthetically pleasing shot above, captured just before sunset, we can see the reflected water surface of Hayfield reservoir which was completed in 1911 for the sole purpose of supplying drinking water to Stockport. There's also a fair few vapour trails in the sky, this particular area is directly below the flight path for many commercial airlines. The patchwork countryside which occupies the mid ground, is an indicator of the enclosure act that was passed in the 18th Century.

I have started to make images that include traces of man's intervention within our rural landscape. At the moment I'm just experimenting with mini themes, so not a hundred percent which direction the project is heading but I'm currently enjoying finding my way with it.

I've also enjoyed taking a number of different people out on landscape photography workshops in the last four weeks. It's great to meet people who share my passion for photography and also the great British (rural) outdoors. All the people I have met have shown a genuine interest in the workshops and a real desire to improve their picture taking skills.


Workshops
Included below are a few image examples and reviews, from people who have attended some of my recent workshops.

Peak District Photography Workshop

© Mike Moore

Prior to the workshop with Neil all I produced was average images, Neil helped bring all I had read about in photographic books to understandable language and how to apply the techniques in the field to produce great images, would recommend a workshop especially if your a beginner like myself.
Mike Moore, Audenshaw

© Allen Davidson

I had a great day with Neil on the slopes below Kinder Scout, starting in Rosie’s café with examples of his own work and explanations of what works and what does not. We went up on the hill with variable lighting conditions to put the theory into practice. I learnt about composition, exposure and why filters are a must for landscape work. I had not used filters before and this was a big learning point that you have to see to understand. Perhaps the most valuable lesson came from seeing how a professional photographer would work a subject – totally different to my previous ‘snap, hope and move on’ method. Thank you Neil.
Allen Davidson, Wilmslow.

Malvern Hills Photography Workshop

© Justin Barrell



I thoroughly enjoyed my day out with Neil, he was quick to asses the gaps in my knowledge and figure out what I wanted (and more importantly what I needed!) from the day. I learnt a great deal with the technical aspects of Photography, so I can get much more from my gear and I also received some great advice on how to compose and capture much more aesthetically pleasing images. Clearly a very knowledgeable, passionate and experienced guy in the world of Photography and also a genuinely nice guy, I think anybody would benefit from one of his workshops.

Justin Barrell, Cheltenham.

Rockit

Just a very brief entry regarding my current location. I'm temporarily based right on the edge of the Peak District in a place called Glossop, in the county of Derbyshire. Whenever I visit an area for more than a week I like to have a few excursions so that I can get my bearings.
In the past I have had some great experiences climbing mountains and peaks all over the U.K. Now residing at the foot of the Peak district's highest point, Kinder Scout, I was looking forward to adding this summit to my collection.

My first ascent began at Bowden Bridge car park in Hayfield and almost replicated the exact route taken by the members of the 'Mass Trespass' in 1932. During the protest working class ramblers from Sheffield, Manchester and the surrounding areas, defied private landowners and climbed the peak. Thanks to this group, of determined revolutionaries, the area was subsequently designated a national park, making it possible for future generations to explore.

The route to the top takes you past the impressive Hayfield reservoir, which looks stunning at first light. As the reservoir narrows, so does the pathway and the ascent becomes much steeper as you approach an area called 'William Clough'.  It's a pretty tough climb, especially when you have a dead weight on your back. I decided I would get the DSLR out of hibernation for this excursion. My rucksack contained the camera body, accompanying lenses, filters and the three pronged, sapper of energy that is my Gitzo tripod - of all the gear I have this is the most difficult to transport when climbing. Eventually the terrain levels out just before the signpost of 'Mill Hill', turn right here for the final steep ascent to 'Kinder Plateau'. This is the area I was most looking forward to visiting as I wanted to photograph some of the huge rock formations which are said to have influenced many artists, including the sculptor Henry Moore.

The further you walk across the plateau the more impressive the stonework. Huge boulders, carved by the elements over centuries, resemble distorted caricatures that appear to melt into the landscape.
Since my first visit I have returned to this spot several times, arriving from a variety of different routes. All of my excursions have been very early in the day (just after sunrise) and I've been fortunate enough to enjoy good lighting conditions. The mono images shown here were shot using a Canon EOS 1D mark III with a 17mm-40mm wide angle zoom fitted and a Hoya circular polarising filter attached. In post production I edited using Adobe CS Photoshop and Nik Silver Efex Pro software. I specifically went for high contrast images with deep, dark skies as the area is known as 'The Dark Peak'.

If you would like to visit this area and learn how to take better photographs, I am now offering a landscape photography workshop at this location. More details regarding course content can be found at f22workshop.com. For availability and bookings please email me or give me a call on 07429 906922

Stillness & Time

Phil Morgan and I visited the Lake District this weekend to research suitable locations for a new landscape photography workshop. The course will be based in the picturesque village of Coniston, Cumbria. The surrounding area provides numerous vantage points for the photographer to hone their skills.

Tarn Hows is approximately 2 miles northeast of Coniston and is managed by the National Trust. This beautiful tarn is fed by a number of valley and basin mires. The water drains out of the tarn via a cascading waterfall (Tom Gill) which offers some great photo opportunities.

Lake Coniston was formed by glaciation during the last ice age. It is approximately five miles long and half a mile wide and has several jetties along its shoreline. These jetties have been photographed many, many times by photographers over the years and are becoming somewhat of a cliché. I was determined not to photograph the 'obvious shot' during this visit and worked long and hard to give this old classic a new lease of life. I think I have managed to do this. By singling out a wooden post on the jetty I have tried to create a new abstract representation of this photographers favourite.

The Old Man of Coniston is the highest peak of the Coniston fells. It  is 2,634 ft. (803 m) and can be a pretty tough walk to the summit. If you're not in a rush to reach the top there are some great places to stop off during your ascent. Abandoned slate mines remain almost intact, giving an insight into the 800 year old industry.

Further up, the small tarn of Low Water provides a welcome resting place before the final push toward the summit. The images below are from a previous visit in September. Truly stunning views of the vistas below make the trek worthwhile despite the added weight of camera equipment and a bulky tripod.